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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.